Anatomy of an Energy-Efficient Roofing Upgrade: Part 3

Thanks to OldHouseWeb.com and Mark Clement for letting us share this helpful video guide. In this segment, Mark cuts manageable pieces of the ice and water shield of 8 to 10 feet off the main roll and installs them that way. Because the shield is sticky, there's a bit of a learning curve with the installation process. A waterproof barrier is essential to the roof's long, leak-free life as well as its energy efficiency.

The ice and water shield works as an energy-efficient roofing vapor barrier. Mark explains that in a cooling environment, air conditioners work hard to suck humidity out of the air. Using the shield prevents a lot of moisture from entering the building in the first place, in addition to creating a tight waterproof seal.

Shingles Finish Up Your Roofing Remodel

Once the drip edge and ice and water shield are installed, properly protecting the plywood underneath from the elements, it's time to start snapping lines for the shingles. Mark recommends using blue chalk, which is removable, so the shingles don't get marked up.

Mark nails down the starter shingles. He works from the center of each tile, nailing at about 3/4" in on either side, keeping a 1" overhang at the bottom of the roof and a 3/8" gap between each shingle.

After the lowest line of shingles is complete, he continues the installation, moving up the roof in a pyramid style, also known as a rack or set style. Each shingle is offset by at least 1.5", ensuring that all seams are also offset from one another. Beauty, durability, and energy efficiency are the main features of this energy-efficient roofing remodel.